In The Kitchen

Spaghetti with Crispy Chickpeas and Preserved Lemon

platedchickpeaspaghetti

Tom Colicchio’s always like “you didn’t develop any flavor” on Top Chef and most people are probably like “what’s he talking about?” My quick answer is: “He’s talking about making things brown.”

Generally speaking, when you’re cooking something, you want it to turn brown (or, to use a prettier word, you want it to “caramelize.”) What that really comes down to is taking things further than you might otherwise feel comfortable. The hard part is if you take them too far, there’s no going back. So you’ve gotta get in there, hover over the pan, but don’t hover too much–if you stare, you’ll be tempted to stir, and that stops the browning. It’s a delicate dance, developing flavor, but if you do it the right way you can create a dish that’s way more dynamic than it has any right to be–like this dish of spaghetti with crispy chickpeas and preserved lemon.

Riffing on a recipe from the Franny’s cookbook, I drained a can of chickpeas and patted them dry with paper towels. Then I heated about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of olive oil in a large skillet while bringing a big pot of water to a boil for the pasta. When the olive oil was good and hot, I added the chickpeas:

chickpeasinoil

A loud sizzle will happen: don’t be scared. Here’s where you should leave them alone for a few minutes so they turn brown. If you stir, they’ll break up and you’ll have chickpea mush. After about 4 minutes, they had some color:

brownedchickpeas

At this moment, I adde about 4 cloves of sliced garlic and an anchovy which I stirred into the mix:

chickpeasgarlicanchovies

Here’s where things got really deep and dark and exciting (Tom Colicchio would be proud)–I cooked the mix until the garlic was just golden brown and the chickpeas almost chestnut-colored:

faralongchickpeas

It’s at this moment that you want to stop the cooking so you add about a half a ladleful of salted pasta water (don’t be shy with the salt in the water). There’ll be another loud sizzle! (Oil and water, as you know.) But then you stir the water in, let it evaporate a bit, and set the chickpea pan aside.

caramelizedchickpeas

This is a good time to drop in your spaghetti. Let it go for about a minute or two less than the package says it should; meanwhile, take a preserved lemon (I bought mine from the Cheese Store of Silverlake) and cut off the rind and chop it.

choppedpreservedlemon

To finish, turn the heat back on the chickpea pan and when the spaghetti is super al dente, lift it out of the water with tongs and stir into the chickpea mixture, adding some pasta cooking water if the pan is dry. Stir all around with tongs on medium heat until the liquid is absorbed and everything is coated; then add the preserved lemon, stir that in, and finally lots of chopped parsley.

spaghettiparsley

It’s hard to convey how flavorful this was, but maybe it’s not hard to convey when you see how brown everything got in the pictures. See, I’m not lying. That’s the secret to developing flavor–brown food. You could win Top Chef on the premise alone!

So get yourself a can of chickpeas and some spaghetti and get practicing. If you can make those two ingredients taste this good, there’s no telling what you might do. Welcome to Brown Town.

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12 Comments

  • Reply Marcella September 3, 2015 at 9:46 am

    This is what I love about everything you make – super simple with tons of flavor. I used to hate spaghetti as a kid because my mom would just dump a can of tomato sauce on over cooked noodles. But when I learned to make a simple tomato sauce from scratch, it became one of my favorite foods.

  • Reply Janice September 3, 2015 at 10:18 am

    I remember the first time I saw Anne Burrell’s show on Food Network she used the phrase “brown the crap out of it because brown tastes good”. I haven’t looked back.

  • Reply Nicholas September 3, 2015 at 10:38 pm

    No cheese?!

  • Reply Matt September 6, 2015 at 7:24 pm

    Why not advertise this new blog on your old one?

    • Reply Adam Roberts September 8, 2015 at 1:59 pm

      I will soon….just want to get this one off the ground first!

      • Reply Matt September 8, 2015 at 5:05 pm

        Cool, I’m glad I found it!

  • Reply Erica C. Barnett September 14, 2015 at 2:53 pm

    This looks wonderful, but I can’t pin it because the Pinterest link doesn’t include an image! Any chance you can update the pins so they correspond to your photos? You know, in your free time. :) Thanks, and glad I found the new blog!

  • Reply Sarah September 15, 2015 at 2:03 pm

    Am I being super-dim wondering whether you’re chopping off the rind of the lemon and cutting that or cutting what’s left? I have a jar of them that I haven’t opened yet and I’d sort of assumed you just use the whole thing…

    • Reply Adam Roberts September 15, 2015 at 2:10 pm

      I cut up the rind of the lemon and discard the inner, fleshy parts. The rind is where it’s at!

  • Reply Lori October 1, 2015 at 11:11 am

    Have you made preserved lemons before? (I may have missed it if you did and posted it) They are so easy and delicious. I’ve been making them for years. The hardest thing is waiting for them to be ready! Here’s a good basic recipe, just lemons and salt. Some recipes add spices like cinnamon sticks, but I like to keep them simple. http://www.npr.org/2013/04/08/176577903/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor

  • Reply Stephanie October 5, 2015 at 8:12 am

    Love this dish!! Making it for the second time tonight and cannot wait to dig in :)

  • Reply Melissa January 27, 2016 at 10:12 am

    Holy Moses! So damn good! I added some chopped prosciutto to the oil before the chickpeas, so there were little crisp bits of it in the final mix. I added some of my harissa and urfa biber to give some treble notes of heat. Ridiculously delicious. I did, however, slightly overcook the pasta. And you are right, very al dente is necessary. Otherwise you end up with gloppy pasta. Blech. The chickpea mixture was phenomenal, though. I’ll try again and try better.

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